The Not-Even-the-Flowers-Can-Quell-My-Rage Blouse: New Look 6078

Finally.

It looks sort of sad and pathetic on the hanger. I'll put it on for later pictures so you can see it in all its fluffy glory.

It looks sort of sad and pathetic on the hanger. I’ll put it on for later pictures so you can see it in all its fluffy glory.

This New Look 6078 blouse has been sewn up for weeks, but I balked at sewing on all those buttons. Sewing buttons = boring. But, tired of seeing the gaping blouse hanging on my bathroom door, I sat myself down in front of a handful of Frasier episodes (gotta get caught up on my 90s!) and forced myself to sew all ten of those buttons on.

So, now I can tell you why I might just like to punch those New Look designers in their collective face.

I did not make a muslin for this pattern. Instead, I just compared the bodice to my modified New Look 6808 and moved and trimmed and expanded where necessary to make the two patterns match, keeping in mind, of course, that 6078 would have a front placket where 6808 did not. Oooooh–I just got a great idea for 6808!!! Hold on–I have to jot this down!

[Doo-doot, duh, doo doo-doot, Hold Music. Doo-doot, duh, doo, doo-doot, doo doo-doot, Hold Music!] (Sigh. . . I miss Homestar Runner. . . )

Okay, I’m back.

So. . . no muslin.

Really, for the most part, construction went along very well. I used French seams pretty much everywhere due to the sheerness of the lawn. Oh, right–I used some very bright and very floral cotton lawn that I bought last spring.

French seams at the shoulder and armscye.

French seams at the shoulder and armscye.

The first minor issue occurred when I was sewing on the plackets. Following the instructions, I hemmed the blouse (I immediately distrust any instructions that have me hem before the end of construction. It just doesn’t ever end well for me). Then I sewed the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the bodice, then flipped the placket out to the right side of the bodice, folding it lengthwise down the middle so that now the placket is sandwiching the raw edge of the bodice. Make sense? The problem is that you end up with a messy edge at the bottom where you can see the folded up edge of the placket.

Extreme close up of placket bottom.

Extreme close up of placket bottom. I’m also seeing that my tension wasn’t quite right on my hemming. . . 

Of course, the inside edge of the placket (inside the blouse, I mean) is very neat and tidy. The obvious solution here is to sew the placket and blouse right sides together and then flip the placket to the inside. I don’t understand why the pattern-makers didn’t think of this. Aren’t they supposed to be smarter than me??? Of course, by the time I realized the problem and solution, I’d already topstitched and was not about to unpick all that to fix a tiny little problem.

It just irritates me though.

Here’s the real issue with this pattern:

NL6078 Collar

The collar does not fit. Grrr…

This issue took me several days to work around, breathing curses at New Look the whole time. Also at my own inexperience because I don’t know how collars are supposed to fit together on paper, so I had no idea how to fix it.

Basically, the collar is too big. The first time I sewed it on, I was like, “This collar is too big.” So, I pulled it off and compared it to the pattern to make sure I’d cut the right size. I had. Then I thought, “Oh, wait, maybe I’m supposed to trim something.” So I trimmed. And put the collar back on. It was too small now. I couldn’t fit the top edge of the placket underneath the collar because of the shallow curve (I had already trimmed the placket to the stitching). So, I cut a new under collar and sat myself down in front of the directions and stared at them until I noticed:

NL 6078 Instructions

Yes, in that picture, the edges of the collar extend past the placket. So, I thought, “I guess it’s supposed to be that way? Maybe it all turns out okay in the end only I can’t see it yet.” This happens to me a lot, so I blindly followed the instructions. And this is what I got:

Ewwwww.

Ewwwww.

Oh, and the undercollar?

NL 6078 Undercollar

Yuuuuuuck.

How it ended up eight times too big, I DO NOT KNOW. So, now as you can see, it’s all wrinkled under the collar.

I simply reached the point that I just didn’t care enough to try again. When the top button is buttoned, you can’t really tell.

Or CAN you???

Or CAN you???

So, I ask you, if you know of a pattern with a very well-drafted Peter Pan collar, please let me know so I can learn how it’s supposed to be done. I have Burda 7739 which has a Peter Pan collar option, but I haven’t made it yet. Can anyone testify?

In spite of all the trials, I do still like the blouse. It’s very fun and bright. I wore it to the grocery store the other day when it was warm out and it was comfortable and fit well. There are slight gaping issues when I sit, but that’s not a huge deal. I did also get to use a new technique to sew on my buttons properly: I used a toothpick to help me make a decent button shank, something I’d never even thought about before. Growth!

NL 6078 Button Shank

Also, I think it’s going to be super cute and librarian-ish with my Beignet–which is coming along nicely. Only buttonholes, buttons and carriers left to do. I’m worried about those carriers; that’s lots of layers of twill to sew through. . .

Oh, and you want to know how Oliver felt about those crazy instructions?

IMG_0380

He looks like he’s luxuriating, but he was really trying to Kill the Papers. I did eventually put my camera down and stop him before he tore them to shreds. They only suffered minor wrinkling and a small tear.

. . .

Serves ’em right.

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18 thoughts on “The Not-Even-the-Flowers-Can-Quell-My-Rage Blouse: New Look 6078

  1. I had a huge giggle picturing you punching a pattern designer in the face. LOL.
    I found when I made a shirt dress the un-interfaced collar piece stretched out heaps. I have no idea why. The bias edges? When I made the Peter Pan Alma blouse I was super careful with the collar to stop it stretching everywhere. And the shirt dress? I trimmed the stretched out piece to match the interfaced piece.

    • That is a very good point! For one, I think I need to take Sunni’s advice to trim the undercollar down about 1/16″. But I’m also wondering if stay stitching along the seam line would help it keep its shape. Hmmm. . . something to try.

      Three weeks ago, I was ready to storm the New Look offices! Now, I’d probably settle for a strongly worded letter. Or maybe just whining about it on my blog 🙂

  2. I love it! And I love how light and airy it looks! Don’t worry, you can barely see any of the issues you pointed out. And I find that even when I make a muslin, I find some way to eff up the real version.

    I can’t remember if I’ve made many New Look patterns.

    I think most people can’t see the mistakes we’ve made and that we’re much harder on our self-made items than we are on the stuff we buy off the rack (I think one of my favorite shirts is almost completely off-grain).

    I’d love to see it on you!

    • Thanks–it’s probably the springiest piece of clothing I own!
      I know I’m pretty hard on myself, but part of that is that I really do want to learn to do things correctly, and if I become complacent about the icky bits, I may end up too lazy to really try, you know? Also, in this case I think it’s about 75% New Look’s fault 🙂

      • We shall see what the ground hog is saying, maybe you’ll be able to wear your springiest shirt sooner than you think!

        I know what you mean about doing things right while we’re learning. Sometimes I hate going back and correcting stuff and have yet to accept that the seam ripper is supposed to be our friend.

        You know what they always say, “don’t hate the sewer, hate the pattern”. (No, no one says that, but if you think it’s New Look’s fault, girl, I got your back! :))

  3. This looks lovely, and although you know they’re there, I doubt anyone else will see those “challenges”.

    My only experience of a peter pan collar is with the Violet blouse (Colette), and my collar ended up too large too. I just kind of ease-stitched it on, so it looks Ok, but doesn’t really sit quite right when on. I put it down to stretching during handing (also I made it at sewing class, so the pattern piece probably travelled back and forth from class to home a few times).

    • Thanks!
      I really am thinking that undercollars at least ought to be stay-stitched to prevent the stretching. I’m going to research this.
      Where did you take your sewing class? What sort of class was it? I’d love to take sewing classes, but all that’s offered around these parts is quilting/crafty/beginner based–not quite what I’m looking for.

  4. That print is awesome! It’s so bright and fun! I always stay-stitch collars. It seems like even if you handle them delicately, they still stretch out crazy fast. I mean, if you think about it, they’re made to fit a neckline, and necklines stretch out immediately if you don’t stay-stitch, so it makes sense. I don’t understand why pattern instructions rarely or never advise you to do that.

    • Thanks!
      Ah-hah, that confirms it. From now on, I stay-stitch!
      I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that instructions don’t mention it. I now know that pattern instructions, particularly the “Big 4,” are NOT to be blindly trusted.

  5. For all the trouble the pattern gave you, you have produced a lovely little blouse! Great fabric choice! I could relate to your comment about not understanding a step in the pattern but hoping it would all work out in the end. When that happens, at least for me, it is usually a sign that I’ve missed something in the instructions.

    • Thanks!
      That has definitely happened to me before! On my first dress, I spent ages trying to make a collar fit a neckline and then finally realized that I’d never “clipped to the stay-stitching.” I did eventually get it all together, but there was definitely a lot of frustration along the way!

  6. Pingback: Sewing Slowly and Other Ponderings | Bobbins and Whimsy

  7. I just posted my second and third makes of this pattern. I hate that placket so I just got rid of it. I modified the pattern so it just has a plain facing. The first time I made it (no photos of that one) the collar wouldn’t lay down. The second one turned out much better.

  8. Hi, I’m really hoping you still have some of this pattern because I’ve been trying to find this specific new look misses top for shirt A and apparently they don’t make it anymore and no one has any used ones to sell. I was hoping if you could tell or show me where I can buy this or if you can tell me briefly how to make it. I especially need this for the poofy long sleeves and I’m going to use the collar either. Please and thank you!

    • Hey, Maddy! A couple years ago, I gave away both the pattern and the blouse I made. I’m so sorry I can’t help!

      If it were me, my plan B would be to find another similar pattern with a bodice shape I liked and then modify the sleeve by adding fullness on either side of the center of the armscye and down the length of the sleeve and then gather at the shoulder and cuff.

I'm done. Now, YOU can talk :)

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