This New Look 6078 blouse has been sewn up for weeks, but I balked at sewing on all those buttons. Sewing buttons = boring. But, tired of seeing the gaping blouse hanging on my bathroom door, I sat myself down in front of a handful of Frasier episodes (gotta get caught up on my 90s!) and forced myself to sew all ten of those buttons on.
So, now I can tell you why I might just like to punch those New Look designers in their collective face.
I did not make a muslin for this pattern. Instead, I just compared the bodice to my modified New Look 6808 and moved and trimmed and expanded where necessary to make the two patterns match, keeping in mind, of course, that 6078 would have a front placket where 6808 did not. Oooooh–I just got a great idea for 6808!!! Hold on–I have to jot this down!
[Doo-doot, duh, doo doo-doot, Hold Music. Doo-doot, duh, doo, doo-doot, doo doo-doot, Hold Music!] (Sigh. . . I miss Homestar Runner. . . )
Okay, I’m back.
So. . . no muslin.
Really, for the most part, construction went along very well. I used French seams pretty much everywhere due to the sheerness of the lawn. Oh, right–I used some very bright and very floral cotton lawn that I bought last spring.
The first minor issue occurred when I was sewing on the plackets. Following the instructions, I hemmed the blouse (I immediately distrust any instructions that have me hem before the end of construction. It just doesn’t ever end well for me). Then I sewed the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the bodice, then flipped the placket out to the right side of the bodice, folding it lengthwise down the middle so that now the placket is sandwiching the raw edge of the bodice. Make sense? The problem is that you end up with a messy edge at the bottom where you can see the folded up edge of the placket.
Of course, the inside edge of the placket (inside the blouse, I mean) is very neat and tidy. The obvious solution here is to sew the placket and blouse right sides together and then flip the placket to the inside. I don’t understand why the pattern-makers didn’t think of this. Aren’t they supposed to be smarter than me??? Of course, by the time I realized the problem and solution, I’d already topstitched and was not about to unpick all that to fix a tiny little problem.
It just irritates me though.
Here’s the real issue with this pattern:
The collar does not fit. Grrr…
This issue took me several days to work around, breathing curses at New Look the whole time. Also at my own inexperience because I don’t know how collars are supposed to fit together on paper, so I had no idea how to fix it.
Basically, the collar is too big. The first time I sewed it on, I was like, “This collar is too big.” So, I pulled it off and compared it to the pattern to make sure I’d cut the right size. I had. Then I thought, “Oh, wait, maybe I’m supposed to trim something.” So I trimmed. And put the collar back on. It was too small now. I couldn’t fit the top edge of the placket underneath the collar because of the shallow curve (I had already trimmed the placket to the stitching). So, I cut a new under collar and sat myself down in front of the directions and stared at them until I noticed:
Yes, in that picture, the edges of the collar extend past the placket. So, I thought, “I guess it’s supposed to be that way? Maybe it all turns out okay in the end only I can’t see it yet.” This happens to me a lot, so I blindly followed the instructions. And this is what I got:
Oh, and the undercollar?
How it ended up eight times too big, I DO NOT KNOW. So, now as you can see, it’s all wrinkled under the collar.
I simply reached the point that I just didn’t care enough to try again. When the top button is buttoned, you can’t really tell.
So, I ask you, if you know of a pattern with a very well-drafted Peter Pan collar, please let me know so I can learn how it’s supposed to be done. I have Burda 7739 which has a Peter Pan collar option, but I haven’t made it yet. Can anyone testify?
In spite of all the trials, I do still like the blouse. It’s very fun and bright. I wore it to the grocery store the other day when it was warm out and it was comfortable and fit well. There are slight gaping issues when I sit, but that’s not a huge deal. I did also get to use a new technique to sew on my buttons properly: I used a toothpick to help me make a decent button shank, something I’d never even thought about before. Growth!
Also, I think it’s going to be super cute and librarian-ish with my Beignet–which is coming along nicely. Only buttonholes, buttons and carriers left to do. I’m worried about those carriers; that’s lots of layers of twill to sew through. . .
Oh, and you want to know how Oliver felt about those crazy instructions?
He looks like he’s luxuriating, but he was really trying to Kill the Papers. I did eventually put my camera down and stop him before he tore them to shreds. They only suffered minor wrinkling and a small tear.
. . .
Serves ’em right.