WIP: Simplicity 1801

I have a sinus headache. Sinus headaches do not promote creative titling. Whine whine whine. . .

It was not a very productive weekend, y’all.

Granted, I did go out (across the world, it felt like) to dinner Friday evening (and because I have troubles with my brain, I ended up at the restaurant an hour early!), my sister and baby niece were here all weekend, and Sunday was my birthday. I turned 31 and I’m already feeling that it’s a supremely awkward age. It’s like the 11 of my thirties.

So, it’s not like I was just sitting around being lazy. Like last weekend.

I did do a bit of sewing. I started on Simplicity 1801–I spent a lot of last week fiddling with the muslin. I’ve mentioned before that I’m rather compact on top. I don’t just mean that my waist is higher than normal (though it is)–everything is higher than normal. So, I had to make the neckline a little more shallow. And then I made it too shallow, so I had to deepen it again. After spending most of Saturday cutting and sewing, now I just have to add the yoke facings and sleeves, attach the skirt, and hem. But because rayon challis, as I have learned, is super slippery stuff, as is the lining that I got to go with it, the process is taking a bit longer than I’d hoped.

I’ve been French seaming where I can. But, because sometimes I get all ‘fraidy cat about trimming. . .

Thank goodness for seam rippers, am I right??

Though I had originally planned to line only the skirt, I decided that the whole dress really needed to be lined because of the sheerness of the challis. To reduce bulk, I pleated my lining instead of gathering. I also pleated the darts. I was doing all this math (oh, fractions!) trying to figure out how much to pleat, and in the end I realized that I’d measured wrong, so I had to adjust as I was pinning. I pondered whether to use the front facing or not, and eventually decided in favor of the facing since the neckline really needed the added structure of the interfacing.

At the time, I was so irritated with this fabric that I decided to skip the French seams. It’s probably okay though. They won’t show (much) and they’ll be less bulky this way. I should probably remember to pink those edges before I sew it to the skirt.

Though, now I’m wondering if it would have worked just as well to partially interface the lining. . . Anyway, I decided to sandwich the lining in between the facing and the bodice. And then I forgot completely about the lining, sewed the facing on, and then felt stupid. So, I had to remove all my understitching and add the lining. Then I forgot to clip my lining at the V point and freaked out because when I turned it all right side out, my neckline had become a disaster. And then I remembered to clip that point and all was well. Phew!

Even so, my neckline is a bit wonky. . .

I think I’m just going to press the heck out of it.

Let’s pause here and chat for a bit about linings. I don’t know that much about linings, so I’ve been branching out trying to find linings that are better than the ones you find at Jo-Ann’s. So, I tried ordering some China silk which is still polyester (bleh) but I thought might be thinner than what I’ve used before and, therefore, more acceptable.. I got some in red and fuchsia. When they arrived, it turned out that they were two completely different textures! The red was silky and stiff (until I washed it–then it loosened up and had a much nicer drape) and the fuchsia felt more like a crepe de chine. One of them had to have been misnamed, right? They were both listed as the exact same fabric with the exact same description and price. So, which one is the real China silk?

Okay–so you probably can’t tell the difference in texture by this picture. . .

I had originally intended the fuchsia for my McCall’s 5525 jacket and the red for Simplicity 1801. But, I felt that the silkier texture would be better in the jacket and make slipping sleeves over other sleeves easier. (Don’t you hate it when your sleeves get bunched up under your jackets???)

I also started working on my Simplicity 2209. I had to lower the neckline and the armscye  to make it more comfortable to wear blouses underneath. I have a vision in my head of how this will look cute but not childish. I hope my vision isn’t lying to me. . .


4 thoughts on “WIP: Simplicity 1801

    • I ordered from fabric.com. I used to love ordering from them because they’re so close I’d get my fabric the next day! But, now they’ve gone a little crazy and unreliable.

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